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The artistry of India

Our collaboration with Injiri

Season after season, we are privileged to collaborate with Injiri, a clothing and homeware label founded by Chinar Farooqui.

Our philosophy and focus with clothing has always been to create garments that are timeless in their design and made to last you for years. But how we make those garments is just as important to us. We consider each step in their lifecycle to ensure we are producing our clothing as ethically, mindfully and sustainably as possible and lightening our environmental impact wherever we can. Celebrating craftsmanship and the beauty in the work of the hand are core values within that philosophy.

Images courtesy of Injiri

A meeting of minds

Season after season, we are privileged to collaborate with Injiri, a clothing and homeware label founded by Chinar Farooqui. Meaning ‘real India’, Injiri’s creations are guided by Farooqui’s intuition with the aim of creating a body of work that explores handwoven and handmade textiles from India and beyond. Injiri sees the beauty in simplicity and seeks to redefine traditional styles of clothing, keeping their true essence alive. Central to that work are India’s extraordinary handwoven fabrics which are specific to the region in which they are grown and spun, producing a variety of styles, colours and textures.

Injiri 2021: Neel Collection

Indigo has been revered for its rich aesthetic throughout the world and it is a fascination that has lasted for millennia. This heritage is most potent in India, where the native indigofera tinctoria plant has become a cornerstone of the artisanal textile industry rooted in the dyeing and handweaving communities. The Injiri Neel Collection is the result of years of experimentation with natural indigo, in combination with various textile techniques that are signature of Injiri – such as jamdani, clamp dyeing, extra weft weaving, tie and dye.

Bamford X Injiri Summer pop-up

The Injiri Neel Collection will be available to purchase in our Bamford stores for the month of June 2021. As you browse, you will experience how each Injiri item is woven and dyed by hand using traditional Indian textile techniques.

31st May - 13th June, Bamford Mayfair

15th June - 30th June, Bamford Barn Cotswolds

Find us

"This collection is an amalgamation of my love for Indigo for all the growing up years in Rajasthan, travelling to the villages of Akola and being deeply moved by the beauty of Indigo dyeing processes. By the means of this collections we hope to take you through the journey of those experiences." - Chinar Farooqui, Injiri Founder and Designer

Indigo: Nature and nurture

Indigo dyeing is practised in many small centres across India and you will find vats dotted around in communities like this. This entire process is very fragile, and highly skilled artisans are required for indigo dyeing: too much fermentation, or not enough, or the wrong level of heat can destroy a whole batch of dye. Indigo vats must be monitored and maintained on a daily basis.

Indigo dyeing is done by several dips to achieve the desired shade - about 8 to 10 dips will achieve a dark shade. The Indigo plant leaves are used to ferment and create the blue dye. Unlike other textile dyeing processes, the fabric does not turn blue in the dye pot but it needs to be exposed to air. Drying a piece of dyed fabric will slowly turn from yellow to green, to a deep dark blue by exposure to air.

Conscious craft

At the heart of Injiri is a deep respect for the materials they work: they have been conservative in their approach to the collection, cutting the garments in a way that ensures there is minimum wastage by means of using more rectangular panels.

Most Injiri garments are initially cut in a way that ensures there is minimum waste generated however, whatever is left is repurposed through weaving. The off-cuts are woven to make unique, recycled textiles that are used in the garments, resulting in a collection of pieces that are at once symbiotic yet one-of-a-kind.

Can't visit us in store?

You can book a complimentary virtual styling appointment with our Bamford store teams to browse the Injiri pop-up collection at your convenience.

ASK OUR IN-STORE TEAM

Leave a message by clicking the chat icon at the bottom right hand side of your screen and we'll get back to you. We're available for live video and text chat during store hours.

HOW TO BOOK

To arrange a video call appointment please message us on web chat or email us at customerservice@bamford.co.uk

Each Injiri piece passes through the hands of craftspeople from all over India, before it is cut, stitched and finished in their Jaipur studio. Injiri’s work is a joyful celebration of the skill in the work of the hand and, as it does for us, the desire to protect those valuable skills and traditions permeates everything they do.

Archive: 2020 Teej collection

The name Teej signifies a festival of Rajasthan, which welcomes monsoon season. The 2020 collection consisted of handloom-based jamdani textiles, tie and dye textiles (or bandhanis), and also lustrous cottons and silks. Injiri works with the same set of weaving and dyeing artisans for each collection, building on the learning of the past seasons.

Weaving

Weaving has been done in vibrant colours for this collection, inspired by Pahari miniatures – a colourful form of Indian painting, which has been a reference point for Injiri’s colour palette for a long time. Injiri is inspired by how colour behaves on a certain fibre and the way in which the yarn itself evolves when dye is applied to it; the closeness of warp threads combined with the number of picks in the weft define the density of colour and texture achieved in woven fabrics.

Introducing extra weft with organic cotton has been used here to achieve beautiful vibrant shades of yellows, pinks and blues.

Fabrics that are woven on the loom are usually washed immediately after weaving. In Bhujodi, they are hand-washed many times to bring the warp closer and to soften the textile. The beauty of each process in the making of fabrics adds to the experience of working with textiles, imbuing the final garment with the care and intention of every pair of hands that has been a part of its journey.

Tie and dye (bandhani)

The hand tie and dye pieces are achieved through a technique of discharge dyeing known as Bandhani - meaning removal of colour after tying the dots in the fabric. “Bandh” literally means to tie. The designs are marked on the fabric, and then these marked dots are pinched and thread is wound tightly around so as to prevent the dye from penetrating this part of the fabric. Three tools are used to tie the fabric: a strong cotton thread called dheri, a glass or metal pipe called bhungali and a thimble called naklo. The fabric is then dyed, washed once to remove excess colour from the fabric and left to dry.

Once it has dried completely, the knots are unfastened again by hand and the undyed portions of the fabric reveal themselves in an intricate dotted pattern. Tying these knots is a time-consuming process and depending on the intricacy of the design, it might take months or even a year for the women of the village to tie these knots - making a Bandhani garment a valued piece to be treasured and kept forever. In India, Rajasthan and Gujarat are the states most known to practice this craft technique and it is typically done by women in between household chores. To this date, the processes followed are still similar to that in the past.

‘Craftsmanship and the need to support its artisan skills have been at the heart of the Bamford philosophy since we founded the brand, and they are also values that are central to the work and pieces that Injiri create. Our collaboration unites these beliefs. It is an opportunity to showcase our shared love of the extraordinary talents and work of the designers and artisans behind these exquisite Indian crafts.’ - Carole Bamford

TRAVEL NOTES FROM INDIA

A conversation between Chinar Farooqui, founder of Injiri and our founder Carole Bamford.

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