MEET THE FOUNDER
IN CONVERSATION WITH ANNA FOSTER, FOUNDER OF E.L.V DENIM
“In a world of overconsumption, E.L.V. DENIM challenges convention and provides another way to enjoy fashion.”
E.L.V. DENIM began with a pair of mid-seam jeans and has developed into a coveted British brand. We are thrilled to introduce the exclusive collaboration: Bamford X E.L.V. DENIM.
At Bamford, we strive to source the most earth-conscious fabrics, so we are delighted to work with a brand that champions upcycled denim and tackle waste in the textile and fashion industry. In collaboration with E.L.V. Denim, we have created an exclusive capsule of three limited-edition styles: the Frankie Shirt, the Frankie Jacket, and the Signature Flare Jeans. Each piece is unique and has its own story. It begins with the fabric, which is sourced from preloved garments, before being skilfully handcrafted into considered, stylish, sustainable designs that last a lifetime.
In conversation with renowned fashion stylist Anna Foster, who founded the brand in 2018, we discover how this partnership came to life, driven by our shared sustainable ethos.
HOW DID THE IDEA FOR E.L.V. DENIM COME TO LIFE?
AF: Named after East London where I live and where the jeans are produced, and the vintage pieces reused in them, I started E.L.V. DENIM in response to throw-away consumerism’s influence on fashion. Fashion is one of the biggest polluting industries in the world, with denim being one of the most prolific garments within that. There are more jeans than people in the world. It takes the same amount of water to make one pair of jeans, as one person drinks in 13 years.
Having been in the industry as a stylist and fashion director for 25 years, I had become somewhat despondent with how I felt the industry was ‘behaving’ and I knew that there had to be different way forward. I wanted to create a brand that had sustainability at the heart, and that this ethos governed every decision. During my career, I had recognised the strong emotional connection towards the one-of-a-kind pieces that I was lucky enough to be gifted or find in sample sales. I didn’t see why that had to be an exclusive feeling to those in the industry and I wanted to share this with everyone. Everyone who owns a pair of our jeans will have their own one-of-a-kind piece, and therefore will be inspired to look after it, so it lasts a lifetime.
WHAT INSPIRES YOU?
AF: The concept of taking the imperfect and making it perfect is a powerful perspective. E.L.V. DENIM reflects a commitment to sustainability, uniqueness, and craftsmanship. What we do is the inspiration that drives my creative and innovative endeavours.
Also, creating a brand that allows everybody to find a perfect pair of fitting jeans. When a happy customer leaves in a pair of jeans or messages us to tell me how much it means to have a pair of jeans that fit perfectly. Like many, I found shopping for jeans difficult. As a consumer, I felt frustrated that I didn’t conform to how a denim brand wanted me to be.
HOW DO YOU SELECT YOUR FABRIC?
AF: Once the garments are hand-sourced and curated, they are reworked into modern sophisticated pieces that are all unique. Only ever working with local ateliers in East London, we ensure that each garment has the lowest carbon footprint possible whilst supporting local businesses and communities.
Fabric quality is our priority. We grade each garment with 8 measurements, and each of those indicates what it can become. Once a pair of jeans is graded, we consider, and reconsider each garment, before deconstruction. This process is important, as our goal is to extract as much material as possible. Our design reconstruction respects the properties of the material and original characteristics of the garment. It takes time, but this is where the quality in the final garment originates.
BAMFORD AND E.L.V. ARE SO ALIGNED IN ETHOS AND PRACTICES - WHY IS THIS PARTNERSHIP SO IMPORTANT TO YOU?
AF: Finding a likeminded partner in a collaboration is the key to its success. Bamford, like E.L.V. DENIM, was born from an ethos of sustainability, with every decision made being measured against a code of conscious conduct. When you are so aligned, there is complete acceptance of each other’s processes.
We believe in revaluing material, creating the perfect out of the imperfect. Bamford recognises this skill and the value in our processes, and call upon us as experts in sustainable denim production to complement their collections.
WHAT WAS YOUR INSPIRATION BEHIND THE PIECES IN THE COLLABORATION?
AF: The beauty of E.L.V. DENIM is that we can create exclusive colourways for our collaborators. For Bamford, we wanted to focus on the classic mid-blue denim that compliments the tones of the Bamford collection that revolve around nature’s colour palette.
WHY IS IT SO IMPORTANT TO ENCOURAGE LESS FAST FASHION?
AF: The biggest challenge we face is a global one, that we are conditioned to spend less on our clothes than (in extreme circumstances) a cup of coffee, and unfortunately, we are also conditioned not to expect our clothes to last a lifetime. We have to challenge the status quo of designing, manufacturing, consuming and discarding; fast fashion has the biggest part to play in this. We have to choose fabrics that last.
I selected denim as my starting point, as it was designed to be a hard-working fabric. Unfortunately, denim is also one of the most polluting materials in terms of production. There are more jeans than people in the world, so I felt it was so important to start to ‘make good’ all the environmental damage caused in the first place. We are the only denim brand in the world never to cut from a roll of fabric or use virgin fibres, and I am very proud of that.
We must support local manufacturing. It was a clear-cut decision for me to produce only in London, as it naturally means we have the lowest carbon footprint, and I can work closely with all of my ateliers. I believe I have a duty to support the local community and businesses. East London has a strong history of fashion manufacturing and I want to play my part to make sure it keeps growing. As the brand has evolved, we are using more textiles and branching into new categories, always looking into new ways to innovate.
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE PIECE IN THE COLLECTION AND HOW WOULD YOU STYLE IT?
AF: The Frankie Skirt is an easy and chic addition to the wardrobe that goes beyond seasons and trends. It can be worn with boots, layered with a cashmere rollneck and a shirt for winter. Or in the summer with a simple white t-shirt and flat Mary Janes.
Our pieces are manufactured one at a time, by hand cutting and reconstructing with care. We champion slow manufacturing, to guarantee quality that lasts.
WHICH DENIM STYLES DO YOU SEE AS TIMELESS - PIECES THAT WILL ALWAYS TRANSCEND TRENDS, AND WHY?
AF: Our Flare, Boyfriend and Stovepipe jeans are classic styles, designed with the seam allowance to live forever in your wardrobe. Of course, the Denim jacket; a staple in the wardrobe since its inception in the 50s.
WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON DOUBLE DENIM - IS THERE EVER TOO MUCH?
AF: I personally love triple denim – there is never, ever, too much denim!
HOW DID THIS COLLABORATION COME ABOUT?
I have been a friend of Carole Bamford’s for many years and we have lots of shared passions. This collection was the most spontaneous of ideas and Carole set the ball rolling literally immediately. She’s a true do-er! The notion of a collaboration was very exciting for both of us. What she has created with Bamford is unique and appealing, and the ethos behind the brand is what I admire most. We are aligned in many ways and this was very important to me when collaborating.
TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT THE COLLECTION
The dresses are super easy to wear, suitable for all body shapes and would be as lovely for London as they would for the country or a holiday abroad. Versatility is critical. I also love the intricate details; the pretty embroidery, the pops of pink, the wavy hems and sleeves, and – vitally – the long shoulder ties.
I designed two very different style shirts as I can never resist a pretty blouse, and smocking is literally in my DNA. I also love the masculine oversized nature of the double-breasted shirt. This is an element I haven’t seen before so wanted to try it. I’m a sucker for a vintage men’s dress shirt so this was a bit of a play on that.
HOW DID THE IDEA FOR E.L.V. DENIM COME TO LIFE?
Named after East London where I live and where the jeans are produced, and the vintage pieces reused in them, I started E.L.V. DENIM in response to throw-away consumerism’s influence on fashion. Fashion is one of the biggest polluting industries in the world, with denim being one of the most prolific garments within that. There are more jeans than people in the world. It takes the same amount of water to make one pair of jeans, as one person drinks in 13 years.
E.L.V. DENIM was born to celebrate jeans that already exist, and more importantly, the material that makes up those jeans. Just because the style, condition or size of the jeans is no longer desirable, it doesn’t mean the same can’t be said for the material. We handpick and deconstruct garments whose material is of great quality and reconstruct into new pieces that are designed to last a lifetime.
Having been in the industry as a stylist and fashion director for 25 years, I had become somewhat despondent with how I felt the industry was ‘behaving’ and I knew that there had to be different way forward. I wanted to create a brand that had sustainability at the heart, and that this ethos governed every decision. During my career, I had recognised the strong emotional connection towards the one-of-a-kind pieces that I was lucky enough to be gifted or find in sample sales. I didn’t see why that had to be an exclusive feeling to those in the industry and I wanted to share this with everyone. Everyone who owns a pair of our jeans will have their own one-of-a-kind piece, and therefore will be inspired to look after it, so it lasts a lifetime.
WHAT INSPIRES YOU?
The concept of taking the imperfect and making it perfect is a powerful perspective. E.L.V. DENIM reflects a commitment to sustainability, uniqueness, and craftsmanship. What we do is the inspiration that drives my creative and innovative endeavours.
Also, creating a brand that allows everybody to find a perfect pair of fitting jeans. When a happy customer leaves in a pair of jeans or messages us to tell me how much it means to have a pair of jeans that fit perfectly. Like many, I found shopping for jeans difficult. As a consumer, I felt frustrated that I didn’t conform to how a denim brand wanted me to be.
WHAT WAS YOUR INSPIRATION BEHIND THE PIECES IN THE BAMFORD COLLABORATION?
The beauty of E.L.V. DENIM is that we can create exclusive colourways for our collaborators. For Bamford, we wanted to focus on the classic mid-blue denim that compliments the tones of the Bamford collection that revolve around nature’s colour palette.
AS A GODDESS OF DRESS WEARING, WHAT ARE YOUR TIPS FOR THOSE OF US WHO MAY BE A LITTLE DAUNTED BY THE IDEA OF WEARING A FROCK?
Dresses are the easiest things to throw on and they are always cheerful and cheering. People sometimes have a notion that dresses are for formal or special occasions, but they should never be relegated as such. They are so practical for everyday wear. Dresses don’t have to be feminine or pretty, as I know that deters some people from reaching out for a dress too, if it’s out of their comfort zone.
WHEN DID YOU FIRST DISCOVER YOUR INTEREST IN STYLING/FASHION?
I treasured my clothes as a child and vividly recall the joy certain things brought me. My Peter Pan collars, Liberty floral dresses, a soft pink skirt with deep pockets, clogs, Victorian lawn dresses… I’ve always had an appreciation for craft and detail, and embarked on a fashion assistant role straight from university. I liked the process of putting outfits and things together.
WHAT BOOK ARE YOU READING AT THE MOMENT?
The Paper Palace by Miranda Cowley Heller. I’ve always got a tapestry on the go which can occupy valuable reading hours!
WHERE ARE YOU GOING TO SPEND TIME THIS SUMMER?
I love France, particularly the south. It’s a place I’ve visited for as a long as I can remember – from family holidays as a child onwards. The smells, the sights, the sounds – it’s all pure nostalgia. So I’ll be in Provence, doing my usual market trawling and hunter-gathering, and also lavender buying. I’m also going to Lake Como which I can’t wait to explore.
WHAT ARE YOUR SUMMERTIME ESSENTIALS?
Baskets! And plenty of them. In all their forms. I am endlessly mocked for my basket obsession and vast collection. I buy one in almost every single place I visit. Vintage dresses are another essential, plus reams of ribbons and trimmings which I use for belts and hair ties. And lots of SPF and oversized sunglasses.
ANY BEAUTY AND WELLNESS TIPS TO SHARE?
My morning routine is very basic, as is my getting-ready-to-go-out regime. My lifelines are relaxing baths with lavender-y or eucalyptus-y oils, Ross Barr Calm and Healing patches, lots of fresh (out of town) air, and Classic FM to restore calm when life overtakes (which it does and far too often). And a wild swim, sea swim or cold swim whenever possible! It’s unparalleled in its rejuvenation and invigoration.
I’m about to embark on a course on how to breathe properly – as ridiculous as it sounds, it's not something I do at all and I’m endlessly told about how bad my shallow non-breathing is for the soul. So I’m going to learn how to breathe! According to Wim Hof it’s truly game-changing if you get it right.
WHAT IS YOUR GO-TO BAMFORD PRODUCT AND WHY?
The The B Silent Bath Concentrate It’s truly wonderful for a bedtime bath and makes for a deep and wonderful sleep. I love a bath. And a good smell. This really is a good combo of lavender, camomile and vetiver.
WHAT ARE YOUR TOP THREE APPS?
Instagram. I love the photo sharing element and album-like nature of it. I haven’t yet moved into reels or TikTok. It’s classic stills photography for me, forever.
I also love photography associated apps – either for editing, or transferring from my Leica camera to my phone, or a framing app for Instagram. They are all photography related as that’s my favourite hobby and always has been.
And then BBC Sounds. I am plugged into radio 4 and iplayer for many hours of the day, and night. It’s a trove of wonderful things to listen to, old and new. Not to mention The Archers…!
WHO’S IN YOUR FAVOURITES LIST ON YOUR PHONE?
My parents, my siblings, and my lifelong Swedish best friend who’s on my speed dial even though she’s quite far away in Stockholm and may not be able to tend to me that swiftly in an SOS situation!
WHAT’S NEXT FOR MARTHA WARD?
Yikes. I’m struggling to look beyond the end of the week at the moment! My plate is quite full. I’d like to see where the wind carries me.
MARTHA WARD IS A FASHION STYLIST AND FASHION DIRECTOR OF CONDÉ NAST TRAVELLER MAGAZINE.